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A gorgeous hike, many castles, middle Europe’s largest basalt rock quarry, a sun dial I was the shadow for, and a millennium old oak tree! What more could I ask for on an enchanting weekend to Marburg and the Vogelsberg volcanic region? Oh yeah, the Brothers Grimm and their fairy tales! They met me there too.

During my first voyage through the Mecklenburg Lake District a few years ago, I met two kind people at my first campsite on the solo trip. We became postcard friends and before I knew it, I was invited to visit them for the weekend! The 4.5 hour train ride from Berlin to Marburg would turn out to be more than worth it – Manuela and Lothar had planned an incredible weekend for me to enjoy as much of their village, Marburg, and the surrounding Vogelsberg region as possible.

Starting the Tour

Our day began with a very filling, traditional German breakfast from a local bakery/café in Nieder-Ofleiden. After breakfast, we were ready to start our hike! Manuela and Lothar had planned for us to do one of the most famous hikes in the region – the Schächerbachtour, a hike following a beautiful little creek through the woods. This trail is famous and has been given the coveted title of a Premium Hike in Germany. We began at the Stadthalle in Homberg-Ohm. From there, the whole way is so well signposted that a map is hardly necessary.

This nearly 10 km tour had many highlights along the way. The first we came across was within a few hundred meters of the start of the hike. We came around a corner and had a view of an old railway bridge which went over the Ohm River. No more noisy trains here, the tracks have disappeared from either end and all that’s left is the bridge.

looking at the old railroad bridge over the Ohm River in Homberg-Ohm
Photo Credit: Manuela

Next we traveled over a pedestrian bridge to cross the Ohm. High up in a tree was a grey heron majestically observing the scene. Just over the bridge is the Pletschmühle, a mill which dates back to 1567.

Apple Wine

Across the street is a Kelterei, a press house, for apples – apple wine and apple juice! We were in luck because the operation was in action. The machines were abuzz with rolling parts and grumbling noises. Lothar encouraged me to try the apple wine, but cautioned me not to fill my glass up more than a few sips. After one giant mouthful I understood why – the apple wine is extremely sour and a bit bitter. Not what I had been expecting from “wine.” They then explained to me that it’s usually mixed with something else like mineral water, sprite, coke, or apple juice. In the winter it can be consumed warm with cinnamon, sugar, and cloves like a Glühwein. I glugged the rest of it down in order to taste a full glass of (actually very delicious) Apfelquitte juice (apple-quince).

at the Kelterei
Kelterei beim Pletschmühle

From the Kelterei, we continued on in the woods, getting a few nice glimpses of Homberg-Ohm along the way. We hiked past the playground in the woods, and crossed a few bridges back and forth over the Schächerbach. At home, Lothar and Manuela have a book about the Schächerbachtour which is illustrated by paintings. Many of the locations along the hike have legends attached to them, mostly having to do with someone falling into a body of water and never returning. This includes the Dorotheabrunnen, Jungfernloch, Schwarzen Meer, and Zobernwiesenteich.

Jungfernloch
the famous and mysterious Jungfernloch on the Schächerbachtour

The Kneipp

Towards the end of the hike we came across a Naturkneipperlebnis. A natural Kneipp experience. Not to be confused with a Kneipe (the bar!). A Kneipp is a spot where you can walk around in freezing cold water in the name of health and improved circulation. This spot was fortunately ankle to mid-calf deep and not more, but still frigid cold. I could barely make it halfway across the narrow Schächerbach creek before my feet started aching. I yelped and jumped my way to the other side, grateful to take the stone bridge back to my sneakers. Manuela was much tougher than I was, and waddled across and back to prove it.

the Naturkneipperlebnis
gingerly and swiftly walking through the Schächerbach’s freezing water at the Naturkneipperlebnis
Photo Credit: Lothar

The end of the trail crosses the Ohm a final time, goes by a family of cows and a flock of sheep, and the Gasthofheinmühle before heading back up into Homberg-Ohm at the end of the Schächerbachtour.

crossing the Ohm
crossing the Ohm River at the end of the Schächerbachtour

I couldn’t believe that this was only the very beginning of everything I would see during the jam packed weekend. To read about the rest of the exciting things I saw that weekend, check out Marburg and the Vogelsberg Region.

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