Northern Hesse is loaded with Premium Hikes. There are so many, that I can even cycle to some of them from the village in which I’m staying. With light snow and only a partly cloudy afternoon in the forecast, I set off to Waldkappel to hike the 18 kilometer long Premium Hike Waldkappeler Berg (P17).
Arrival
Once I arrived in Waldkappel, I didn’t have any trouble to find the start. There are even P17 parking signs to lead you through town right to the start of the hike. I locked up my bike, checked out the detailed map, and headed up the hill to begin, following the loop in a clockwise direction. The first kilometer or so was the toughest. Switchbacks led me up the 150 m climb in altitude through mixed forest. The lightly falling snow dusted everything, making the hike all the more enchanting.
Centbuche
Having completed the hardest climb of the hike, I arrived at the Centbuche. This tree was once the border between Thuringia and Hesse, although now this area very completely lies within Hesse. This beech tree was approximately 300 years old and dying in 1974 when it’s hollow trunk was filled with cement. It lived another ten years before dying completely and being blown up by the army for safety reasons (whatever that means…). Although there is no tree to see, there are several nice picnic benches to rest after the tough trip up.
Hiking on a forestry road, I enjoyed the silence of the falling snow. Further on the trail, something auburn caught my eye. I gasped and a fox turned around to look at me before quickly trotting out of view.
Pioneerturm
It was not much further until I reached the transmission tower-like Pioneerturm, which lent a fantastic view, despite the low visibility. From this point, the hike descended into a valley.
I crossed the calm road and headed towards a farm where two horses watched me from a paddock. The trail cut right through their pasture, and the horses came up to greet me as I ducked under the fence. Heading up an incline out of the horse enclosure, I had a great view of the surrounding hilly farmland with each field a different texture of snow.
The snow stopped falling and the sky began to brighten. I stopped on one of the many benches along the route and pulled out my sandwich. Although I was only 5 kilometers into the hike, I was hungry because of the bike ride to the start. After eating my sandwich, I packed up and continued on the trail.
Coming to the top of the next hill, I met a one-armed forest ranger who was cutting up a thick branch with a chainsaw. “Young lady, it’s not cold enough for mittens!” he called to me. I explained that I always have frozen fingers and his advice was, “rub your hands in some snow, that’ll make them real warm.” I thanked him and kept my hands in my mittens.
Ziegenküppel Turm and Knots Keller
Shortly before the next peak, I came across a limestone cave called Knots Keller. Millions of years ago, this area was underwater and sediment entombed crustaceans and other small creatures. Amazing to think that 447 m above sea level was once the bottom of the sea!
Just a few meters away from the cave is the Ziegenküppel Turm, another spot for a fantastic view. Here, I met the first hiker I had seen all day. A man and his dog awaited my departure from the tower for their own turn at the top. After the tower, I found the descent to be the most challenging of the whole hike. Some parts are really steep, made even trickier by the snow-covered leaves.
Detour to Schemmeraner Blick
I took a detour from P17 by accident while following signs for Schemmeraner Blick, a view point. This was not an all a disappointment! Along the way, there were many cute figurines which lined the path. When I arrived at the Blick, the view was fantastic! More fields, hills, villages: idyllic. You can even take a seat and have a snack on the table and bench placed just for the occasion. Finding my way back to the main P17 Waldkappeler Berg trail was easy enough by following the signs for Burghofen. I can’t compare this detour to the actual route, but I would say it’s worth it.
trail companions 
Schemmeraner Blick
Burghofen
Arriving in Burghofen was the last great viewpoint I would have on the journey. Again, two horses greeted me as I entered the town from above. The farmland was sprinkled with snow and the village had a smattering of half-timbered houses. I zig-zagged down the hill, not actually entering the town, and continued on a relatively flat path through the farm fields. The trail also led along the edge of Friemen, a small village and the lowest point on the trail.
Schemmeraner Blick 
Burghofen
Rechtebach
Next, was a fairly big incline up to Rechtebach, the only point on the hike where I felt a bit lost. Entering the village, I said hello to an older woman with short grey hair in a bright pink jacket and tall rain boots walking out of town. In the center, another info sign and many arrows attempted to point hikers in the right direction. Rechtebach is where two of the three shortcuts on the trail meet. After a few false starts, I followed the signs for Waldkappel, making a big U through Rechtebach. As I was leaving, I saw the woman in the pink jacket again. “Dreimal müssen wir trinken gehen,” she said. I didn’t understand. “Three times and we have to get a drink. You know, the saying? Too bad everything’s closed now,” she clarified. How interesting it would’ve been to share a drink with this friendly and funny woman!
Return
That would be it though for my encounters on the hike. Ditto for the highlights. The rest of the trail was pleasant, but uneventful, meandering through hills and forests until I reached the start in Waldkappel again. The final corridor is lined with blackberry thickets and there is a spring coming out of the side of the trail.
For my adventure on the Premium Hike Waldkappeler Berg, the visibility was low, but I can imagine how incredible the views are on a clear day. Even with the limited perceptibility, I could see Groß Meissner mountain covered in clouds in the distance. Another great aspect to this hike is that if you’re not up for 18 kilometers, there are three well-signed shortcuts which allow you to tailor your adventure. It would not be easy to arrive via public transportation to this hike, but it is just a 10 km bike ride away from the Reichensachsen train station. The Premium Hike Waldkappeler Berg was one I’m happy to have in the books!
Waldkappel is about 10 kilometers biking from the Wehretal-Reichensachsen train station (25 minutes). You can instead take bus 200 (15 minutes). For connections, check nvv.de. I planned this tour with the help of this page from Deutsche Wanderinstitut.
Learn more about Premium Hiking in Germany
More premium hikes: Schächerbachtour