After a wonderful first German Christmas, C and I decided we would ring in the New Year in Jever. You know, the beer? It’s quite a renowned brew in Germany, but the town itself is not as well-visited. Some friends were surprised to hear we were going there, and others agreed to come with us. I was just excited to get to see the German North Sea Coast for the first time!
Jever
We used Jever as a base to discover East Friesland for the week. There were plenty of interesting things to do and experience in the small city. While we were there, we learned a lot about East Friesland too. The region is in the north west of Germany in the state Niedersachsen, bordering the North Sea and the Netherlands.
The Schloss
Of course, the very first thing we had to do upon arrival in Jever was visit the Schloss. This pretty pink castle looks just like a birthday cake. Even the tower in the middle with the onion dome looks like a fat white candle complete with a flame. Despite not being able to visit the tower in the winter, the rest of the castle was open for visitors. One floor had period rooms with blue and white tiled walls, tapestries, and old furniture. Another room was extravagantly decorated with painted leather wall covering and a complexly carved ceiling. Many of the descriptions are available in English as well as German, but I found the translations a bit clunky to read enjoyably.
The rest of the museum was an interesting amalgamation of exhibits. The old toy exhibit was fun, the one on 60’s-80’s disco in the Weser-Ems region was funky, and the display of British porcelain Shih Tzu’s was kinda strange. We spent quite a while engaged in each of the 4 floors of the museum. It is definitely worth visiting!
Jever Brauerei
Book your tickets early! C and I tried to arrange tickets during our week and it proved impossible. Granted we were there the week of New Year’s, but I think it is one of the most popular things to do while in Jever. Next time we’re there, I’ll be sure to reserve in advance.
Blau Drückerei
Hidden in a small side street behind the main marketplace is the Blue Print Shop. The tiny store and workshop has a little display in glass cabinets of the tools of the trade, miniature ships, and other items to explain the history of indigo dye. There are tablecloths, handkerchiefs, and napkins for sale. The back half of the shop has fabrics in various shades of blue hanging from the ceiling to dry along with a giant tub where the magic happens.
When we walked in to have a look around the man behind the counter was dying (haha!) to share his knowledge with us. C asked a question and it sparked a 45 minute conversation about the history of the “blue miracle” and how it is produced. Despite not being a museum, anything you want to know about indigo will be enthusiastically answered.
This shop is one of the many that used to be in Jever and across Europe as the blue dye became all the rage. When it was replaced with synthetic dyes, the cheaper product was preferred and such shops went out of business. Today, the Blau Drückerei still produces traditionally dyed products. Because Indigo is a complicated process, its products come with a price tag to match. Maybe someday I’ll be able to go back and get a souvenir.
Der Butt
I know – ha ha ha. Butt!
But really, “Der Butt” translates to English as a flatfish, a category which contains plaice, flounder, and the common dab. And in Jever “Der Butt” is the fanciest fish restaurant in town! Good thing we had the forethought to make a reservation, otherwise there was no way to get a seat on a Friday night. The restaurant is quite small, giving it a relaxed and quiet atmosphere. The service was friendly, offered great recommendations, and even showed us how to cut the bones out of the fish. Having ordered the fish platter for two special, we left were stuffed and not disappointed!
Wochenmarkt
Two times a week on Tuesdays and Fridays there’s a market around the Stadtkirche (church). There’s fresh fruits and vegetables, fish, cheese, olives and salads, etc. It’s a nice way to see the residents out and about and to live a slice of local life (even in the rain).
East Friesian Culture
Throughout our week in Jever we explored the rest of East Friesland. We were lucky enough to have some special experiences unique to the region.
The Friendliest People
Besides the insanely nice bike rental shop owner, we also met incredibly kind bus drivers. Firstly, there were multiple times we saw people waving to the bus driver as he was pulling away or as they were running to the stop. Our jaws dropped when the bus driver stopped, opened the door, and let those people on. We are not used to this kind of treatment in Berlin. The transit association in Berlin has actually made advertisements poking fun at the unfriendly Berlin bus drivers doing just the opposite. They joyously express their Schadenfreude as they leave you standing behind in the rain. But never mind Berlin, this post is about the beauty of East Friesland…
A second wonderful bus driver encounter we had was when we wanted to go to Hooksiel. When the driver asked us where we were going, we tried to explain that we needed a ticket first to one place (which I can’t remember now) and then another to our final destination, since we weren’t sure if we’d make the connection. He said not to worry about the connection and also sold us a better ticket. During the ride, he called our connecting bus driver and asked him to wait for us until we got there.
Our final nice encounter on the bus was with a driver-in-training. This situation goes to show how kind all East Friesians are, not only the bus drivers. The trainee had a hard time finding the right buttons to press for the correct tickets to be printed out. No one getting on the bus or sitting on the bus was annoyed, rude, or impatient. What a nice change of pace to Berlin! It was more complicated getting around the area than in a city, but the friendly and relaxed demeanor of everyone we met quickly made up for that.
The Sunrises and Sunsets
There is something wonderful about the shortest days of the year…the amount of time the sun spends on the horizon seems to last forever (or nearly as long as the sun is in the sky). This means looooong sunrises and looooong sunsets! I was so grateful each day getting to see such beautiful sunrises throughout the whole morning. The flatness of the landscapes also add to the wonder because the sky seems to stretch on forever in front of you. The sunrises are endless shades of yellow filled with syrupy clouds. In the evening, the sky turns bright orange, pink, and purple with the light bouncing off the clouds in various patterns.
Friesian Tea
Drinking tea in East Friesland is an art. The world leaders in tea consumption normally drink three cups at a time, up to 6 times per day. This is the place for me! The tea, made up of a blend of ten or more black teas, is served on a platter with the pot placed on a stove with a tea light in it (a Stövchen) to keep it warm. In addition to your tea cup and saucer, the tea comes with Kluntje and cream. Kluntje (also the clever name of the boulder gym in Aurich) are rock candy-like blocks of sugar which crackle when you pour hot tea over them.
In order to drink East Friesian tea, you must first place a Kluntje into your tea cup. Then pour in the tea, enjoying the clinking sounds the sugar is making as it dissolves. Next, add cream using your spoon to drizzle it in the counterclockwise direction. The cold cream sinks to the bottom and then, warmed up, will puff up to the top like floating clouds. Apparently, it’s unacceptable to stir your tea, so just enjoy the sugar when you get to the final sips. This way the tea can be tasted in all of its layers – first the cream, then the tea, and lastly the sugar. Put your spoon in the teacup to show you don’t want any more tea, otherwise you’ll receive cup after cup!
Jever is certainly not your usual winter destination, and I don’t know that it is high on many people’s lists at other times of the year, but I definitely had a good time on our off the beaten path New Year’s trip. Cycling, tea for days, beautiful skies, and friendly locals make this a great place any time of the year.