In between cycling the 100 Schlösser Route and the Danube bike trail, we celebrated C’s birthday with a camping trip and a hike in the Märkische Schweiz. “Märkische Schweiz” means the Switzerland of the Mark Brandenburg. There are many places in Germany known as something-Schweiz because they are hilly or mountainous and as beautiful as the Alps in Switzerland. It may seem a bit funny to compare anything in flat Brandenburg to the Alps, but if anywhere then here around Buckow. The hike is noted in my guidebook as being the most strenuous of all because of its steep inclines, although the highest point on the hike doesn’t reach 100m. Despite the lack of altitude, the hike does have beautiful viewpoints over the Schermützelsee. The views and the lake combined with the diverse forest make this an excellent hike. It’s even been awarded the seal of a Quality Hike.
Details
This 21.5 km Qualitätswanderweg does not pass directly next to a train station, so if you want to do it in one day, you will have to add 3 km to and from the Müncheberg (Mark) station. If you travel on a weekend or a holiday, there is a Waldbahn which travels from Müncheberg to Buckow, also stopping in Waldsieversdorf (schedule). C and I camped in Waldsieversdorf on the Großer Däbersee and did the hike on the following day. Since the hike is a loop, you can begin anywhere along the way (especially if you arrive by car). There are also many ways to shorten or lengthen the loop by taking various paths through Buckow, which is at the center. As a “quality hike,” it is thoroughly well marked by a red dot on a white background.
Not off to a good start
We began our Rundkurs in Waldsieversdorf at the south end of the loop and headed counterclockwise. I was very happy for with decision because I felt that this was the worst section of the hike. After about twenty minutes or so I mentioned to C that I was disappointed so far and hoping that it would get better (don’t worry, it definitely did!). We began the hike in a long stretch of boring monoculture forest, with rows and rows of sickly looking pine trees.
And then there were Blackberries
After this section, there was no going back. The trail became wonderful and I was a smiling, happy camper for the rest of the day. Soon after we found ourselves wandering through luscious deciduous forest full of healthy diverse trees. We hiked by buzzing bumble bees and a quiet meadow. Then we came to a corridor of blackberries. Clearly someone had been through before us because all the ripe ones were furthest from the trail. But we picked and ate anyways until our arms were scratched from the thorns and our fingers purple with juice.
Kalorienpromenade
Soon after we passed by the Drei Eichen visitor center for natural and environmental education. Between there and the Pritzhagener Mühle we started to see signs for the Kalorienpromenade, or calorie promenade. These signs had an image of various meals, the amount of calories, and how long it would take to hike this many calories away. I was laughing every time we saw a new one. Some of the ones we passed were for herring, Eisbein, a glass of white wine, a bottle of beer, and a salad.
Kalorienpromenade
Stöbber River
After the Mühle, we crossed over and followed the Stöbber River for a while. It led us by the Großer Tornowsee, many flowers, bumble bees, and dragonflies, and the Günterquelle spring. There were splashing dogs and kids with nets looking for critters in the Stöbber. Otherwise the babbling river noises were relaxing. When we neared Buckow there was more foot traffic along the path. At the Güntherquelle we left the trail to visit the town.
Stöbber River Großer Tornowsee
Buckow
Buckow was just filled with all sorts of cute buildings. There were several hotels you could have fooled me into thinking were castles. And many of the houses in the center are colorful half-timbered houses. In front of some houses were stands with garden grown goodies. C and I picked up some apples to snack on and potatoes, a zucchini, and tomatoes to cook up for dinner. We added up the sum and stuck a few coins into the box.
At the town square were a few restaurants and cafés. The Märkische Schweiz tourism has certainly impacted the local gastronomy, as there were more vegetarian and international cuisines available than I expect in Brandenburg. Although almost everything looked good, we went to the café because it was cake o’clock.
Schermützelsee
After our slices of poppy and lemon cakes were gone, it was time to hit the road again. Again, I was grateful for the direction we chose to wander this loop because it was time for the highlight: the Schermützelsee. The closer we got, the more beautiful it became. The water is so turquoise, you might think you’re in the Caribbean. Despite being midday on a weekday, the beach was PACKED with people enjoying the sunshine and water. I can’t imagine what this place looks like on the weekend, and we’re in Corona times here!
The Incline
After a short bit on the road, it was time for the incline. Don’t worry, it wasn’t time to say goodbye to the Schermützelsee. The lake would periodically be in view for the next several kilometers. The trail went up some stairs, over some gentle hills, and then up a steep incline on a trail called the “Panoramenweg.” From the top of the ridge we had an incredible view over the lake and its intense blue color. I took pictures until C said, “OK, I think that’s enough now.”
The Decline
All good things come to an end, but in this case the trail kept on being great! We hiked through a wildflower-filled meadow and at the edge of a cow field. Before we knew it, we were back in Waldsieversdorf, but the fun wasn’t over yet.
Waldsieversdorf
In Waldsieversdorf, there were still many highlights to come. We hiked by the fire department, the sundial, to a former water tower with a view over the area, and the flower clock. To reach the Großer Däbersee from the water tower, we hiked down the Himmelsleiter (literally “ladder to heaven”), a long steep stairway. The trail continued on a narrow path between the Kleiner and Großer Däberseen and then wrapped around the larger of the lakes until we met our starting point.
Kleiner Däbersee
This hike blew me away! Blackberries easily win me over, but this hike also had it all: a fantastic lake, a babbling brook, healthy forests, and even “mountains.” Not only does it deserve the “Schweiz” title, but also its Quality Hike credential. This excellent hike in the Märkische Schweiz is certainly worth the long train ride out of Berlin for the day or weekend.
If you want to see more fantastic hikes from Berlin, you can check out this post.
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