Highs and Lows at the end of the Westweg – Hinterzarten to Basel

Sharing is caring!

In this final post about the end of the Westweg from Hinterzarten to (nearly) Basel, I reached more milestones on the trail. The trail’s highest point as well as two other well-renowned peaks make appearances. If you haven’t yet read about my first days on the trail from Pforzheim, onwards to Unterstmatt and Hausach, up through Hinterzartern check them about before reading the final episode below 😉

Day 10 – Hinterzarten to Wieden – 28km

This morning I had an early breakfast at 7 and was ready to hit the road by 8. The fog had mostly cleared and the sky was already blue. The way out of Hinterzarten seemed shorter than the way in, even though it was uphill. All the homes there are so beautiful with flowers hanging out of all the balconies and windows. It‘s quite well-known as a Kurort, which is a region designated as an outdoor heath resort. There are so many hotels (on the pricy side), a Kurhaus spa, restaurants, etc.

• 

• 

The Highest Day

Despite the 800m of altitude I needed to ascend, the hike to the top of the Feldberg wasn‘t steep. There were nice forested paths and some stretches through fields. I met an older couple (50‘s or early 60‘s) who were hiking sections of the Westweg, driving to each leg with their car because of Corona. They would hike half of a section and then back to their car at the beginning. The next day, they parked at the other end of the leg to do the other half and drive home. They didn’t want to stay in any hotels because not all of them are taking the virus with the same level of seriousness. A fact which I can attest to after staying in 9 already!

When I stopped outside of a large log cabin-like Hütte, a younger couple passed by that I hadn‘t seen before. They were also hiking the Westweg and had taken a day‘s break in Hinterzarten. We would meet periodically throughout the day, but only today. Sadly, I wouldn’t really develop any more trail comradery than I had the previous days. 

Feldberg – the Westweg’s highest peak

The morning kilometers, just like on a bike, seemed to fly by. The hike to Feldberg’s peak was beautiful. I read that the trees on the top of the Feldberg were cut down for a radio station. Years later, when they wanted to reinstate the nature, they could never get anything to regrow. Sad for the trees, but I found the heath-like landscape also very peaceful, and allowed for views all the way to the top. The grasses had so many colors in the fall sunshine.

Descent

Not far from the top is the St. Wilhelmer Hütte. When I passed through they were closed for vacation, although the kiosk was open. I continued down the hill, admiring the farm landscape before heading briefly back into the woods. For a long while, the landscape was heath and pasture. On the way to the Stübenwasen Hütte, I passed the world‘s largest Baumliege (“tree recliner”) which had a fantastic view of the town Todtnauberg.

At the Stübenwasen I ordered a Heidelbeerwein (blueberry wine) and raspberry cake, but an Apfelschorle and a slice of blueberry cake arrived at the table. No cake is disappointing and the service was in a friendly, good mood. I can really see why blueberry wine is a thing in the Black Forest, they‘re growing everywhere! I talked with two teachers from Freiburg who were enjoying a relaxing weekend to recuperate from their first very long week back to school. It made me feel soooo grateful to be on SABATTICAL and NOT at school!

Although there were only 12 km left to go, this part of the day seemed to take longer. There were lots of great paths through the woods. Bikers continually caused me to jump in surprise as they zoomed by from behind. I reached the Notschrei ski/sport arena and crossed a busy road to continue the hike.

Where is Wieden?

When I got closer to the Wiedener Eck Guesthouse, a panorama of the valley opened up below. I knew I was close to my destination but I couldn’t see the village anywhere. The valley was mostly grazing pastures with forest at the top of the hills, so I could see a lot in the distance. When I came around one farm, I could see the parking lot below, where I assumed I would be getting picked up from, and the Guesthouse (yet another one where I arrive on their rest day), but still no village in sight.

The trail dipped back into the forest to round out one more hill before dropping me out at the Wiedener Eck hotel and restaurant. Along the way I had glimpsed some rooftops but they were now invisible. The village of Wieden lay very deep in the valley. I called Haus Margarete and waited a few minutes to get picked up.

Haus Margarete

The ride to the hotel was short, but steep. The woman who picked me up spoke such a dialect I had a hard time understanding her. She could barely understand my Hochdeutsch! All the same, she was very sweet and told me she made a reservation for me at the nearby restaurant. Because it was Saturday they were already nearly full.

• 

• 

I showered and got ready for dinner. The brief walk around the corner to dinner at Hotel Sonnenhang was steeper than short. I had another delicious Käsespatzle. Belly full and legs all tuckered out, I was ready for bed at 7:30. But a good night’s rest is important for tomorrow’s long day to Belchen, Blauen, and Kandern.

Day 11 Wieden to Kandern – 34km

Oh boy! Today was a long day but I managed. Frau Stahl kindly drove me back up to the Wiedener Eck guesthouse at 8am so I could start my tour bright and early. Today I would summit two famed peaks in the Black Forest, Belchen and Blauen, known for their amazing views and fantastic trails.

Belchen – the Westweg’s alpine climb

Despite the meager six and half kilometers, it took me a good two hours to get to the top of Belchen. The book mentioned that the climb is one of the most alpine in the Black Forest. It was definitely tough. Sometimes the trail was very narrow on a steep slope. Often, there were danger signs to warn hikers about the risk of falling. Throughout the day, even after Belchen, there were several places where the trail was like this. Alpine or not, the trail was excellent all day long.

Even though it was Sunday, I didn’t meet many weekend hikers. Which was especially good since the narrow trails made moving out of the way to let someone pass nearly impossible.

Summit, please?

When I got near the top of Belchen, I realized that the Westweg didn’t actually go to the summit. How could everyone rave about this peak to me and the trail doesn’t even go to the top? I decided to take the 600 m long yellow rhombus trail to the peak. The views were great, but honestly, you will get the same panorama by continuing along the Westweg signposted trail. But it is mighty invigorating to be standing at the top of a mountain. I enjoyed a brief break before heading back to meet the route again. The Westweg wraps three quarters of the way around the edge of the crown, with excellent views in each direction. The hike passes by the chair lift, which can be taken to avoid the steep climb to the summit.

Peak Trails

At the summit, I learned that Blauen, the next peak I would be on, was 11 km away as the crow flies, but it was more than 15 km to hike there. The trails were quiet all day, only becoming a bit crowded when I reached a hiking parking lot. To get to Blauen, I followed a very long stretch of narrow path along the side of a mountain. The mountain went up steeply above me and dropped down steeply below me and this thin line along the edge allowed me to move horizontally across it. I could see the forest road below and hear the mountain bikers as they whizzed by. It made me feel like my path was my own secret trail.

• 

• 

Blauen

I was annoyed when I got to the top of Blauen because there was a giant parking lot! I had walked over 20 kilometers to get to this summit and everyone else here had just taken their car up! The annoyance didn’t last long when I saw the view. I loved that there was a lookout tower, and although I was dying to take off my shoes, I left my pack at the bottom and scurried up. The panorama was fantastic! Seeing Belchen from afar, I realized that it was a bit strangely shaped. There were also several paragliders in view. When I was back on the ground resting my feet, I saw that a group of people were trying paragliding for the first time, which gathered many onlookers.

Leaving, I passed by the Blauen Hotel, but it was closed. Whether on vacation or permanently was unclear. Luckily I had heard something about it being closed two days ago, so I wasn’t THAT disappointed about no cake. I could have used the sugar boost for the descent to Kandern. It‘s still 9.5 km but almost exclusively downhill. And 1000 m lower in altitude. To my happy surprise, the descent wasn’t as horribly steep as the ones into Forbach and Hausach. I passed by the Hexenplatz (“witches’ place”) and then rested my feet again in the village of Vogelbach. Downhill is still really tough on my feet.

• 

• 

• 

Kandern

Just after Vogelbach I reached castle ruins. I went up the stairs to get a brief look at the little stone castle before heading back to the trail. I was getting so close! Just before Kandern there is a good spot with an overview of the town. I got a little lost on the way down, but managed to find the trail again and headed into town, where I ate a lot of food and feel right asleep after so many kilometers and highlights.

I’m sad that tomorrow is already the last day!

Day 12 – Kandern to Lörrach – 20 km

Kandern is a cute town, which my hungry self didn’t have eyes for the previous day. I walked through the square but then began to get a bit lost. I hate finding the way in a city. Too many other things grab my attention and one sign is not more obvious than another. In the woods, a sign sticks out like a sore thumb against nature, which is not the case in the city. An old man with a pair of hiking poles pointed me in the right direction. Although I was doubtful, I followed his directions and landed smack back on the trail.

• 

• 

The Wolf Gorge

What awaited me was a wonderful gorge, unlike any other landscape I had experienced so far on the trail. The Wolfsschlucht was a beautiful section of limestone cliffs. Sometimes it was narrow enough for just one person. There was nothing like this on the Westweg so far. It was completely different!

Leaving for low altitude

That said, the trail was different today than all other days. I really had the feeling of leaving the Black Forest. The trail had small ascents and descents which still caused me to sweat, but did not include the same altitudes as before. Even the feel of the forest was different. Now it was mostly leafy instead of needle-y. The forest was brighter since more light was let in and the trees were more noticeably ready for fall. The ground was covered with freshly fallen leaves instead of pine needles. This change wasn’t better or worse than all the evergreens, just a sign of the end.

Cars are the worst!

A difference I did mind however, was the change to civilization. There were a lot more noisy roads within close range of the trail. I could often hear cars even if I could not see them. I also went through many small towns, spending more time on paved roads instead of dirt trails. This made even the shorter hike strenuous on my feet and ankles. Through Hammerstein (cute Fachwerkhäuser!), Egisholz (annoying trail markings!), and Wollbach I inched closer to Basel.

• 

• 

Change in plans

Despite Basel being the Westweg’s official end point, my plans had to change. From Basel I wanted to travel directly to Geneva to visit a colleague. Because Geneva was on Germany‘s Corona risk list at the time, I decided not to go. And because Basel, Switzerland comes with bigger price tags, I decided to spend the night in Germany. Instead of 26 km to Basel, I would hike 16 to Lörrach. No, not just 16 to Lörrach. First 19 kilometers to the Dauerhütte and then 4 ish more to the final hotel.

Along the way there were great views of mountainside vineyards and small towns, with the occasional glimpse of Basel. Just outside of Lörrach was a fantastic castle ruin, Burg Rötteln. The castle complex is huge and contains an upper and lower castle and boundary wall. It‘s also free to explore around. I did check out some parts of the castle, but mostly I was tired from all the pavement.

• 

• 

Dauerhütte – my end of the trail

When I reached the Dauerhütte, there was an entire class of 25-30 teenagers and a few teachers wrapping up a day trip or a sports excursion. There was brief chaos as more than two dozen kids packed up to ride their bikes back. Then I was able to enjoy my final moments on the Westweg at this hut. The view over Lörrach, the Burg, and the surrounding farm fields and mountains was fantastic. I could see Blauen in the distance and the dark evergreen trees of the Black Forest. Not a bad way to end a hike – with a view of how far you’ve come!