The 100 Schlösser Route (100 castles trail) is a bike route over 1000 kilometers long through North Rhine Westphalia, Germany which goes by many castles. The route is divided into 4 loops, which mainly start in Münster. This post is about the west route of the 100 Schlösser Route, but I have also written about the south route, north route, and east route.
WEST ROUTE
The west route is the longest of the 4 loops of the 100 Schlösser Route at 316 kilometers. It is the only route which is not connected to Münster, but instead begins in the town of Coesfeld (but it’s a loop, so start wherever). Since I was staying in Münster and traveling each day out to my start point, this route had some very long connections. There are several fantastic castles along the way, but I really enjoyed the peaceful landscapes, especially along the Bocholter Aa River.
Day 1: Coesfeld to Haltern (am See) – 62 km
The Münster residents were out in full force already at 9am on a Sunday! The train station was bustling with people, many of them accompanied by bicycles. When I entered the bike compartment on the train, four bikes had already settled in and another three followed after mine, despite the six bike “limit.”
Coesfeld
In Coesfeld, I got off train and tried to make a little detour from the route to head through town. It was pleasant enough and the smell of bacon and eggs wafted to me from a café already serving breakfast. Having looked at the route profile while on the train, I was prepared for the several hills that lay waiting for me just outside of Coesfeld. At the top of the first hill, the “Drei Linden Blick,” or three linden view, I could see a panorama of the town.
A few hills later, I was barreling downhill towards the Benediktinerabtei Gerleve, a Benedictine abbey from 1899 which is still inhabited by monks. The rest of the way did not have too many architectural highlights. I passed by many more wildflower-edged farm fields, horses, cows, and villages.
I’m not the only one who is lost
After missing Haus Schwickerig, I found myself wondering which direction to go at a fork in the road with no trail marker, when a pair of Dutch cyclists I had passed earlier went by me. After 20 meters they turned around to the fork where I was. Together, we deliberated about where we were located on the map and which direction we should take. Happily, we came to an agreement about the direction which turned out to be correct. Throughout the day we waved to each other as we leap-frogged along the route.
Karthaus was a tiny village with a few cute homes that I just had to photograph. The trail remained on quiet roads; and by quiet, I mean few vehicles – the cyclists were out in droves for their Sunday excursion. So much so that a pee break was near impossible. In Buldern, I took a break at a for-cyclists rest stop. There was a picnic table and several spaces of bike parking. An elderly man walking his dog took interest in where I was going and where I had come from.
Dülmen
In Dülmen, the signs were utterly crazy, as the route in my book was different than the one signposted. Despite doing well for quite a while, I took a detour by accident, which caused me to cycle a few kilometers next to a busier road. But in the end I still made it to the first castle of the day after 25 kilometers: Haus Visbeck. The former feudal estate is now a private residence, but visiting the chapel is still possible.
Sythen
The trail continued to zigzag towards Sythen, but this time purposefully in order to avoid the Truppenübungsplatz – the military training grounds. Just before reaching Sythen, I stopped to enjoy the true highlight of the day: a pony farm! And not only were there lots of tiny ponies, but even tinier baby ponies. I was kind of dying from the cuteness. Then I reached Schloss Sythen, which is another Wasserburg – a castle contained within a moat. The gatehouse is nearly as big as the castle itself and the grounds are well groomed.
ponies on the West Route of the 100 Schlösser Route 
Schloss Sythen is used for private events, but you can visit the grounds for free
Haltern am See
After the castle, I met my Dutch friends again. We cycled onwards together and were in Haltern in no time, where we departed. I had an ice cream at the lake and people-watched briefly, because there were far too many people enjoying the sunny Sunday weather. I said goodbye to Mischi, my bicycle, at the train station and ran to catch the train back to Münster as it pulled up.
Day 2: Haltern am See to Bocholt – 63 km
It’s amazing what a rest day and a new bicycle seat will do for you. Some days it feels like each kilometer is longer and harder than the last one. Today the kilometers melted away while I sat on a seat made of clouds.
I picked up Mischi in Haltern and took a road parallel to the trail before joining the official route. A pair of bikepackers asked me for directions. Although they were following a different bike trail, I could help orient them a bit, but I’m not sure they knew which way they were going. When I did reach the trail, it began to take a different path than was marked on my map. Reluctantly, I followed and was happy to be pedaling through the forest instead of alongside a busy road.
Schloss Lembeck
The occasional raindrop wet my face, causing me to momentarily think that I was eating a bug or being pooped on by a bird. The weather report told me to expect rain sometime in the afternoon, so I was happy that it was just an odd raindrop instead of a steady sprinkle.
Was it the lack of wind? Lack of rain? Well-directed signage? Slight drop in elevation? I’m not sure, but I was already at Schloss Lembeck, 16 km from where I began. The Schloss there was amazing! Normally, you can visit the castle and the gardens, but currently only the grounds are open due to Covid. The castle buildings are situated on two islands with a beautiful garden behind it. At first I thought 4.50€ was steep to visit the grounds, but the views of the castle and all of the flowers were worth it. Hydrangeas, rhododendrons, roses in all sorts of colors, peonies, pink, purple, yellow, and white. So many things were in bloom and there were plenty of benches and picnic tables scattered around to enjoy it. There was even a playground for tiny castle-goers.
Schloss Raesfeld
The cycling continued to be easy, as I zigzagged across the railroad tracks a few times on the way to Raesfeld. The signs had been doing an excellent job all day, but here I ignored them in order to check out Schloss Raesfeld. I was not disappointed in making this detour. Just 1.5 km off the main trial, Schloss Reasefeld is an island on an island. The building is private for events and seminars, a trade academy, and a hotel, but you can still walk around the grounds a bit. The area of town surrounding the castle has the looks to match. There are tons of cute restaurants and cafés nestled into old half-timbered houses. If it hadn’t really begun to rain, I would have meandered through the streets there a while longer.
I had read the weather report. I knew that it would rain for the rest of the trip. It would rain for the next 25 km, but I was feeling like superwoman on the bike today and didn’t care. The directions were easy and I hardly stopped to check the map. I passed horses and cows, over rivers and highways, and under busy roads. There was a too-short stretch along the Bocholter Aa, but it lead to the Bocholter Aasee, (different than Münster’s Aasee). Then I was at the train station in Bocholt already!
Bocholt
I was surprised to not find much space for bikes in Bocholt. There was space for around 30 bicycles on terrible racks (which for me means low racks onto which you cannot lock your bike frame) and about 60 bikes already parked there. All other stations I have been at have had a sea of proper bike racks and plenty of spaces to choose from. Bocholt is not connected to Münster directly by train, so I had to take the one and half hour long bus ride back. Bocholt and Borken are the two most inconvenient stations for me back-to-back because I will have to take this same long bus to Münster. At least tomorrow is supposed to not have rain!
Day 3: Bocholt to Borken – 63 km
What I brought in grumpiness the trail made up for with beauty today. I woke up already tired and wishing I could stay in bed a little bit longer. Turns out, I could have! DB had the times wrong for the bus and I spent an extra half an hour waiting for it than I had planned. Because of my 9 o’clock ticket, it was nearly noon when I arrived in Bocholt. But no worries, Mischi was waiting for me and the sun was shining. Even though I don’t think Mischi would ever be stolen, I still get nervous that he might not be there when I arrive!
From Bocholt, I headed westwards, finding and losing and finding and losing the 100 Schlösser Route before finally getting settled on a path next to the Bocholter Aa, the river I encountered on the previous leg of the trail. When I arrived in Isselburg, I was already pretty tired, but it was only twelve kilometers away from Bocholt! And the trail still continued on westwards even though my final destination was EAST of Bocholt. Whatever I did in this direction, I would have to do in the other and then some. The trail does not loop back onto itself, but instead creates a long skinny arm reaching out towards the Netherlands.
Schloss Anholt
In Vehlingen, I turned right to go northwards, rounding the Wildpark Anholter Schweiz. When I arrived in Anholt, I realized I had passed the Wasserburg and decided to make the effort to go back, since I hadn’t seen a Schloss yet on what felt like a very long day. Going back was totally worth it. The Schloss was really impressive! Most of it date back to the 12th and 14th centuries. It is surrounded by a very wide moat with multiple buildings, towers, and turrets. Gardeners and stone layers were busy at work as the grounds were getting an overhaul. This meant that the museum wasn’t open, although the restaurant and hotel were.
Briefly to the Netherlands
Continuing north until reaching the Dutch border, the route turns to the right and zigzags back and forth between Germany and Holland though a nice stretch of woods and farm fields. I couldn’t tell when I was in Germany and when I was in the Netherlands. In Dinxperlo, the only decidedly Dutch things I could notice were their way-better-for-cyclist streets and the supermarket was a chain unfamiliar to me. Then I was back in Germany for good. What a relief since I didn’t bring my passport!
The route from here was very pretty, but I was getting really exhausted. Instead of appreciating how lovely it was to be in a forest with no cars, I was annoyed that there was gravel and not asphalt. Though, I did say hello to many cows along the way who were close enough to the road you could have touched them. Signs telling me how close Bocholt (my start point) was mocked me as I passed Haus Kretier, which is under private ownership and only visible between the trees.
By this point, I thought that I must be nearly there, but no. There were still more than 20 kilometers to go! The exhaustion and frustration had me wearing my shoulders as earrings throughout the day.
Schloss Rhede
In Rhede, I stopped on the bridge over the moat to take pictures of Schloss Rhede. You can’t go inside because the Earl of family Salm-Salm still lives there. Distracted by the Wasserschloss, I missed the next turn and turned around much later. Back on the right path, I cycled through the Rheder Busch which is a part of the Naturpark Hohe Mark-Westmünsterland. The park was a really great section of non-paved trail. There were a lot of people out enjoying this wooded area.
Soon, I was along the Bocholter Aa again which brought me to Pröbstingsee. This was a huge area for vacationing and activities. There was a high ropes course, mini golf, boat clubs, playgrounds, beaches, a planet trail, bike paths, you name it. This was the place for relaxing and fun in the sun. At the end was Herrenhaus Pröbsting, another Wasserschloss from the 14th century, which is now a clinic.
Wasserschloss Rhede 
Pröbstingsee
I was nearly there! Finally! Less than 10 kilometers to go. You’d think being in the single digits would make it easier, but I felt all the more desperate to get there and give my body a break. The route continued to follow the Aa until turning towards the city to get to the train station.
Out of the three days on the west route, I think that this has had the prettiest sections of trail. I passed 2 out of the three golf courses I have seen on the route. This leg has you crossing the river several times on many picturesque wooden bridges. Even though my exhaustion seems to overshadow my enthusiasm, I really did like cycling here.
Day 4: Borken to Ahaus – 70 km
Everything seems to depend on the weather, but that is because the enjoyability of the ride is highly affected by it. Today’s report stated that precipitation was likely in the morning but should be winding down by early afternoon. This forecast was perfect since with the 9 o’clock ticket I would arrive in Borken just after 11 to pick up Mischi. It would rain for a bit probably and then we could enjoy a water free afternoon.
When I arrived in Borken it wasn’t raining, but everything was getting wet. It was like being in a cloud but at an altitude of less than 100 m. Visibility was OK, but the air was so thick with moisture that it was hard to see out of my glasses. I put on my rain gear to try to keep warm and dry.
Wasserburg Gamen and Burg Ramsdorf
I found my way easily to the trail from the bus/train station and headed towards the edge of town. Just before leaving Borken, I passed by Wasserburg Gamen. Built in the 12th century, the castle can only be visited by the outside as it is currently in use as a Jugendbildungsstätte (youth education center).
Between Borken and Ramsdorf, the trail wanders along the shores of the Bocholter Aa, even though it isn’t within view. Ramsdorf was a cute town with a castle from 1425. Since it was already noon, I grabbed a slice of a cake and a Laugeneck (like a pretzel croissant) from a bakery on my way.
Wasserburg Gamen 
Burg Ramsdorf on the west route of the 100 Schlösser Route
Schloss Velen
Finally the moisture in the air was clearing up and the sky was getting lighter. There was even a small patch of blue up there. I removed my rain pants and rain jacket because I was getting warmer. When I arrived in Velen, I took pictures of the back of the Schloss and then took some wrong turns while actually following signs. When I found the route again, I was already past the castle. Later on, I discovered a picture of the front of Schloss Velen in my guide book and wished I had trusted my instincts instead of the stupid red arrows, because it looked pretty cool.
I was not even half way to my destination, but had already seen three castles, the rain seemed to be finished, and I was not nearly as tired as I had been the day before. Things were looking good. The trail to Südlohn was mostly on ill-frequented roads through farmland. Once there, the route passes by Haus Lohn, a manor house from the 1700’s.
Schloss Velen 
Haus Lohn
The path to Vreden seemed to zigzag back and forth on the map, as if someone had played the Snake game while they were drawing the trail. On this section, I saw so many rest stops with little huts over them. Some of them even had cushions on the benches to sit on. What a luxury!
More rain debacles
I didn’t see much of anything in Vreden and took a quick rest at the bus station to prepare myself for the final 20 kilometers to Ahaus. Outside Vreden it began to rain lightly. I just had my windbreaker on and was wondering if I should bother changing into my rain jacket. My thoughts were like this: The weather report had said there shouldn’t be much in the afternoon. Stopping to put on the rain gear is a lot of effort. Maybe it is going to be done in a minute; I think it’s getting lighter.
I stopped briefly to put on my rain jacket since my windbreaker was getting soaked. Then, it began to downpour. The rain was heavier than I had seen on the whole trip. I didn’t have my rain pants on, but it was too late to change – my bike shorts were soaked. There was nowhere for me to go. I was in the middle of fields and the trees on the side of the road were not enough to block the heavy rain. The water began pouring into my shoes and down my socks. I kept pedaling and a few minutes later came to one of the huts. I stopped to shake out my jacket and wipe my glasses dry. Then a pair of cyclists rode by and I thought: well I’m already soaked and they’re still riding, so why not!
The rain lightened and my jacket began to dry out. Ahaus was getting closer, less than 10 km away. I was nearly there and didn’t feel like I was dying from exhaustion like I had the previous day. It was getting warm, so I unzipped my jacket.
Ahaus
Crossing a busy road, the sign said just 7 more kilometers. And then it began to downpour again. So much for making it to the train dry. I accepted my fate and kept riding towards the town. In Ahaus, the trail takes you by Schloss Ahaus which dates back to the 1600’s. Much of it has been restored since the 2nd World War. Tired and soaked, I snapped some pictures as the rain began to stop. If the weather is better tomorrow, maybe I’ll take some more pictures.
Day 5: Ahaus to Coesfeld – 58 km
When I woke up, Münster was invisible in a fog. I worried that it might rain despite the forecast and thought to myself I need to pack my rain jacket. When the train pulled into Ahaus, there was beautiful blue sky with fluffy white clouds to my right and a wall of black clouds to my left. I couldn’t believe I had forgotten my rain jacket, but would have to hope that the weather report was correct about no rain for the day.
Getting out of Ahaus was easy. After leaving the main road, biking would be mainly on ill-frequented roads. Outside of Wessum, I passed by Haus Horst. It is privately owned and a few men were working with chainsaws out front, so I didn’t stop to take a picture.
More misdirections
When I got close to Heek, the signposted trail was heading to Nienborg, although that’s not where my map said I should be going. It looked like there might be a castle there, so I followed the signs anyway. When I got there, I was happy to have made the detour. The town itself was really cute: I passed a historic watermill and several half-timbered houses on my way to the castle. Burg Hohes Haus is either private or closed for the time being.
The signs seemed to be sending me in the correct direction, as I wanted to go back to Heek. For some reason, I couldn’t make sense of where to go once I got there. The 100 Schlösser Route was sending me to somewhere on the north route or backwards and I couldn’t find signs with the next town on my map. After riding the same stretch of boulevard three times, I finally found the correct direction, although this was no longer part of the signed 100 Schlösser Route.
Damenstift Asbeck
I was really happy I had decided to follow my map instead of the signs because Asbeck was awesome! The village dates back to 1200 when it was a convent. There are so many half-timbered brick buildings and many of them have signs with information about what its original purpose had been (although only in German).
I love that I get to see so many castles each day, but I miss more than I see! Many of them are privately owned, built away from the trail or main road, and are hidden behind lots of trees and a moat. But along the way I see so many farms that I mistake for castles as I go pass. A lot of the barns are so grandiose that you could easily think that it’s an old castle. Often, there are many buildings which make up the farm and they’re well taken care of. Just like the castles, they can be hidden behind trees and hard to get a whole glimpse of. The only thing that’s missing is the moat!
On the way to Legden, I missed seeing Haus Asbeck and Haus von Hülst. Legden was just as cute as Asbeck with its brick half-timbered houses. A big attraction here is the Dahlia Garden and its children’s flower parade every three years.
As you can see, so far the rain had held out. Just 20 km to go until Coesfeld and I would survive the day without my rain jacket. Don’t worry, I won’t hold you in such suspense. Besides a drop or two on my face, there was no rain on this leg of the west route. On the way to Coesfeld, an animal and I scared one another as I rounded a corner. That’s a huge rabbit! I thought as I turned to get another look. Nope. Not a rabbit. A deer! I often see them from the train, but not while riding.
Coesfeld got closer. I missed some more castles, including the former hunting Schlösschen (little castle) and Haus Loburg. When I arrived at the train station in Coesfeld, the train was going to depart in just 3 minutes. Much better than other days when I would have to wait up to 45 minutes for the hourly connection.
The west route of the 100 Schlösser Route was easier to follow than the south route (or maybe I was getting better at looking and following the signs). There were many great castles along the way, but the highlight of this route is the beautiful river landscape along the Aa River. West route – out!
If you’re interested in planning your own 100 Schlösser Route adventure, check out this overview to help you decide which of the 4 trails is right for you!