The Baltic Sea fjord Schlei is an excellent place to have an active vacation. The fjord itself is great for swimming, boating, and water sports, while the gently rolling hills around it are loaded with paved bike paths and fantastic fields and forests for hiking in. You cannot get bored here!
Situated between Flensburg and Kiel on the eastern half of the Jutland Peninsula, the fjord formed over 15,000 years ago during the last ice age. This “green arm of the Baltic Sea” is 43 km long with an average depth of 4m (but up to 15m!). Not only is the Schlei interesting from a geologic standpoint, but also from a historic one. From the 7th to 11th centuries, the largest marketplace in Northern Europe was located in Haithabu (Hedeby in English), due to its strategic location between the Baltic and North Seas.
Here are ten ideas to authentically and actively explore the Baltic Sea fjord Schlei:
Table of Contents
1. Schleswig
Schleswig is a great place to begin your active exploration of the Schlei. It is connected by train to Kiel, Hamburg, and Flensburg, making it easy to arrive by public transportation. First mentioned in 804 as a marketplace, the Duke’s residence in the 16th and 17th centuries made the city a cultural center.
Schloss Gottorf
Visiting Schloss Gottorf is a day-long event in itself. There are extensive exhibits within the palace as well as several outbuildings to explore – including two filled with Expressionist and Impressionist art, and another with an exhibit on an exhumed boat from 300 ACE. Somehow, I missed seeing the Iron Age skeletons, discovered near Eckernförde, but they are a highlight. The beautiful baroque gardens are free to visit and house the Globus, a 17th century knock-out attraction containing a giant globe of the earth and map of the sky.
More great castles in Germany!
Walk to the Altstadt
The walk from Schloss Gottorf to the other end of the fishing village Holm is about 3 kilometers. On the way, you can take a break in the Königswiese, where there’s something for everyone: a skate park, mini golf, tons of benches, a great big playground, beaches for humans and dogs, and gorgeous views of Seagull Island (Möveninsel) in the Schlei.
Arriving in the old town, the St. Petri Cathedral is impossible to miss. First mentioned in 1134 and completed by the end of the 13th century, the most impressive sight is the Brüggemann Altar with nearly 400 oak-carved figures. At the time of writing the cathedral is closed for renovation.
Holm
Holm is the quaint old fishing village in Schleswig, and was an island until 1933. The village centers around the chapel which was built in 1876. To enjoy these cute, unique homes a little longer, enjoy some homemade Kuchen at the Holm Café. Afterwards, take a stroll past the Rathaus to the pedestrian zone. It’s worth walking the entire way through the streets Kornmarkt, Stadtweg, and Lollfuß for all the historical homes.
2. Viking Museum Haithabu and Hike around the Noors
Haithabu was the most important Viking trading place during the 7th to 11th centuries because of its perfect placement along waterways which nearly connect the Baltic Sea to the North Sea, enabling and connecting trade from all directions.
Entering the park, the historic guesthouse Haddeby from 1828 and St. Andreas Church from 1200 greet you. The Viking Museum Haithabu explains the importance of the Viking settlement Haithabu through the many archaeological finds (mostly in German/Danish, some English). A reconstruction of seven buildings recreates a tiny Viking village on the shore of the Haddebyer Lake.
The hike takes you atop the semicircle defense wall, across the Noorbrücke (a simple wooden bridge connecting the two lakes), to two Rune stones (Erik-Stein and Sigtrygg-Stein), the Königshügel monument to fallen Austrian soldiers during the German-Danisch War of 1864, a beach, and excellent, magical views over the landscape. This hike is fabulous and not to be missed! You can find a map near the church (complete the hike in a figure 8 fashion, crossing the Noorbrücke twice). The hike is approximately 13.5 km. The museum is 4 km by foot or bike from Schleswig, but you can also arrive by bus (stop: Haddeby/Haithabu).
3. Visit Kappeln and Hike to Arnis
Experience some Danish flair in the Schlei Region. Kappeln and Arnis are two of the most picturesque places on the Schlei. Kappeln has a beautiful promenade along the river and an impressive drawbridge which lets boats pass through every hour at quarter to. The Mühle Amanda is the tallest in Schleswig-Holstein at 32m. In the Schlei, you’ll see a herring fence, a long tradition in this region which lost its importance after modernization in fishing technologies, and is currently the only one left in Europe! For some active Schlei discovery, hike southwards on the promenade towards Arnis.
Bad Arnis
Arnis, also called Bad Arnis for the beach, is Germany’s smallest city, and is filled with nearly 300 historically protected homes. Take the ferry to the opposite shore and hike back through yellow rapeseed fields and along the shore of the Schlei. The round trip hike is about 12.5 km. Kappeln can be reached by bus from Flensburg, Eckernförde, and Schleswig.
4. Hike in the Hüttener Berge
This region is known for the “real 8000-er’s of Schleswig Holstein,” or the Mount Everests of the state. The two I climbed did not even reach 100m, but that doesn‘t mean I didn‘t enjoy them. From Schleswig, I took the train to Owschlag and then biked about 20 minutes to get to Brekendorf in order to hike in the Brekendorfer Forst. It is possible, although limited, to arrive by bus from Schleswig. There are a few maps at the parking lot which show 4 circular trails. The hike I did combined 3 of them for a total of 12.5 km. Signage in the forest was not the easiest to follow, so be sure to have a real map with you! Highlights include the Rammsee lake, Heidberg (99m), and Aschberg (98m).
5. Bike around the Schlei to Sieseby
Biking the Schlei is an excellent way to explore the region and get a good overview of what it’s about. You can adapt your trip to begin where you’re staying and to be as short or as long as you’d like. I cycled in a figure eight style heading west on the northern shore of the Schlei in Schleswig. In Missunde, I took the ferry to the other side and continued to cycle northwards until I reached the quaint reed-roofed village of Sieseby. The whole village is protected under historic preservation.
From Sieseby, I back-tracked to the draw bridge in Lindaunis to cross the Schlei again. Don‘t forget to stop at the Lindauhof for Kaffee and Kuchen! Again in Missunde, I crossed by ferry to continue back to Schleswig on the southern edge. You can’t miss the Naschikönig on your way through Weseby, another great place to stop for some more sugary energy for your active journey around the Schlei.
Mischi on the Missunde Ferry 
Schlei view 
Mühle Anna
Along the way, you‘ll pass several mills including Mühle Lindaunis from 1837, Mühle Anna from 1911, and Mühle Nicola. This tour was approximately 60 km. I used the Kompass Ostseefjord Schlei Schleswig map to guide me.
6. Beach and Hike in Eckernförde
If you love the beach, then Eckernförde is for you! The beach is filled with the German coast’s iconic beach basket chairs, called Strandkörbe. The huge harbor is filled with many boats to marvel at, and the Altstadt is almost solely for pedestrians. Don’t miss the Bonbonkocherei, where you can watch them make classic sugar candies and take plenty of them home with you.
A great hike in Eckernförde is around the Windebyer Noor, a lake just behind the train station. Roughly 11 km, the route contains an extensive informational learning trail about geology, history, and nature. Eckerförde is easy to access to via public transportation, with train connections to Kiel and Flensburg as well as busses to Schleswig and Kappeln.
7. Hike in the Geltinger Birk
This breathtaking nature preserve is one of the region’s highlights because of the various landscapes, plants, and animals. Over the course of a year, it is possible to observe up to 170 kinds of birds! Since 2002, Konik wild horses are used to care for the landscape, which you might be lucky enough to glimpse. Arriving by public transit can be a bit tricky, but worth it. I took bus 1605 from Kappeln to Gelting Nordstrasse and hiked 3.5 km to begin my tour at Mühle Charlotte. There are many well-signed options from Mühle Charlotte, but I followed the 15 km long seagull tour.
8. Hike Idsteter See
Three marked routes beginning in Idstedt traverse the lake in some form. In addition to hiking halfway around the lake, I hiked the European distance trail E1/E6 to the Raüberhöhle and back. The Räuberhöhle is one of the most well preserved megalithic monuments in the area. The early Stone Age cave was used in the Middle Ages to store goods, hence the name “thieves’ cave.” The forests are pristine and worth wandering through. The E1/E6 is sparsely, but adequately marked with an X and the three routes around the lake are well marked when hiking clockwise. I biked the 8 km/30 min to the Räuberhöhle from Schleswig, but there is also a bus to Idstedt (stop: Neuberender Weg).
9. Paddle on the Schlei
What’s more active than spending the day paddling down the Loiter-Füsinger Au or the afternoon on the Schlei in a canoe or kayak? Kayaking on the Schlei can be a strenuous struggle because of the winds, but I chose this option because the drop-off /pick-up location are the same. If I had been with one or more paddlers, I would have definitely chosen to kayak along the Au.
There are two options here: an 11am drop-off in Loit for the longer 18 km paddle and a 1pm drop-off in Scholderup for about half the length. Both of these tours end in the Schlei, so there’s the additional chance to paddle in bigger waters too. I crossed the Au while biking and it looks beautiful! Getting returned to the start point costs 25€ per group (which hindered me from choosing it on my own!). You can reserve your boat by telephone or online.
Plan a Paddle Adventure in the Mecklenburg Lake District
10. Schleischifffahrt – Schlei Boat Tour
A little less active, but nonetheless part of a full Schlei experience, a boat tour is a fun day on the Schlei. A highlight for me was seeing the Schleimünde, where the Schlei flows into the Baltic Sea. Here are two options:
Wappen von Schleswig to Schleimünde
The ship was originally an ice breaker and tugboat from 1927 called Altstadt. After the Second World War, the ship transported over 200 refugees. The Wappen von Schleswig found its new home and has been cruising the Schlei since 1968. Trips to the Schleimünde only take place on Tuesdays, but to Ulsnis and Missunde 4-5 days a week (about 3 hours to Ulsnis and back). The tour to Schleimünde is an all day affair (9-18:30).
Boat Tour from Kappeln
I chose a Schleischifffahrt from Kappeln because it‘s a bit shorter at roughly 2.5 hours. There are several boats from Kappeln which make the joureny. The tours to and from the Schleimünde cost 16€ across the board with the difference in ships being their start times. All land for approximately thirty minutes at the Schleimünde. I was aboard the MS Stadt Kappeln which left at 11am.
A visit to the Schlei region can be as active or relaxed as you’d like. There’s plenty to see and do and the nature is absolutely gorgeous! I didn’t know anything about this region before I went and I was really positively overwhelmed at the beauty and diversity here. I hope you have a great, active trip to the Schlei!
So many great tips! This is an unexplored corner of Germany for us, and this post truly gave some wanderlust for exploring this state as well. Especially Kappeln and Arnis looks very nice: Thanks for sharing this!
yayy! that’s great to hear 🙂 yes, Kappeln and Arnis are both so cute! and easy to combine with a nice little hike